A Shared Heritage of the Dutch in Kerala

Dr. K.K.N. Kurup

Cochin on the western coast of Arabian Sea or on the Malabar Coast had been an international trade emporium even in the early centuries of the Christian era. Its near by places of Cranganore and Pattanam had been identified as the centres of Muziris or Muyrikkode by archaeologists.

It was against this location of back waters a terrible flood in the river Periyar in 1341, had built in a natural harbour of Cochin facilitating smooth navigation and anchorage for all the times. The Rajas of Cochin or Perumpatappu Swaroopam from their ancestral place of Chitrakootam in Vanneri then migrated to this emerging harbour town and made it their royal head quarters. Trading communities from all over the world settled here even in ancient times. Romans, Greeks, Jews, Arabs, Chinese and early Christian communities effected their settlements in the town and enriched its cosmopolitan character.

By 1500 the Portuguese vessels found their way to this harbour town and started fortifications with the permission of the Raja. The Portuguese could well exploit the political rivalry between the rajas of Cochin and Calicut for their advantage of building factories and settlement. They built a palace in the traditional architectural style with some modifications in the European style and presented it in 1557 to the Cochin Raja Veera Kerala Varma, for his residence. Over two centuries it remained as the raja’s residence.

In 1663, the V.O.C. or the Dutch East Company conquered the Portuguese settlements including Cochin after prolonged battles in land and sea over Malabar Coast. The royal palace of Cochin was totally destroyed in the encounters. It was rebuilt by the Dutch in the same place and was handed over to the rajas. Thus it was known as the Dutch palace representing the shared culture of the Netherlands.

It is a double storied quadrangular building divided into long and spacious halls. It adopted the traditional native plan and design of Nalukkettu of Kerala. There is a courtyard in the centre where the presiding deity of the royal family ie, Pazhayannur Bhagavati is enshrined. In the south another complex dedicated to Vishnu and Siva had been constructed. In the western side of the palace there is a large masonry tank for bathing. The entire structural complex is enclosed by a high wall with entrances in the east and west.

The upper story of the palace with its wooden covered porch contains the spacious coronation hall and it is known for its carved ceiling. However, it has no mural paintings. There are three large bed chambers apart from other rooms in this palace. To the west of the coronation hall there is bed chamber (palliyara) with low wooden ceiling covered with mural paintings in the traditional style.

There are forty to forty five scenes from Ramayana epic depicting in the mural paintings. To the south of the Coronation Hall, there is a stair case room leading to the bed chamber meant for ladies, on the lower floor. There are other spacious rooms with murals of Bhagavatha stories. Vishnu as Viakundanath is painted here. The Dutch Palace represents a peculiar blending of European and indigenous ideas of architecture and remains one of the major tourist attractions in Cochin.

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Dr. K.K.N. Kurup - Former Vice Chancellor, Calicut University, Director General, Centre for Heritage Studies, Cultural Affairs Department, Govt. of Kerala.

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