For most of the younger generation born in the
80s and later Chennai is a large commercial and
industrial centre, and is known for its messy
and chaotic traffic, crowded streets along with
cultural heritage like the music and dance seasons
in December, shopping areas of T Nagar, the big
malls, latest gadgets like mobile phones, computers
etc. Good schools and colleges giving out the
very best of education in Engineering, technology,
Media or any field of education you want to pursue,
It is the automobile capital of India, also referred
as the Detroit of South Asia. It is a major manufacturing
centre. Chennai is also a major centre for outsourced
IT and financial services from the Western world.
It boasts of several world class hotels and restaurants
and a fast paced life for its citizens.
The city of madras has nostalgic and fresh memories
of my childhood. I have tried to capture how our
good old madras was in the 60s and 70s that I
remember.
During those days of the 60s and 70s, people were
always simple and had lot of time for everything..
Simple living was the order of the day and people
were proud of their culture. Joint family was
the norm and nuclear families were literally unheard
of. Men wore dhotis to office and preferred to
remain bare bodied at home especially to sleep
in the night as Air Conditioners were never there
except in the houses of the super rich. Walking
bare foot was common. At puberty, girls switched
from their frocks to pavadai-dhavani. . Salwar-kameez
was not there but some girls especially the North
Indians wore what used to be called as Pyjama
Jubba . Nightie for women was never there and
housewives wore only sarees. Oil bath was a must
for women on Fridays and for men on Saturdays.
Some people had head bath only on these days.
Mallipoo and kumkuma pottu as well as saanthu
pottu in either red or black colour was a tradition
that every women followed that also added to the
beauty of women. There were no stickers or stylish
bindis as of now. Women used to make home and
men used to be outside home earning. Roles were
demarcated and there was contentment. People were
not desperate to earn more money and life was
peaceful
Eating was unlimited and the word Cholesterol
was unheard of by even Doctors of those days.
There was no master health check or routine health
checks. The only time one visited a Doctor was
when he fell sick and the doctor usually gave
the patient his own medicine which was usually
a red liquid called mixure in a bottle along with
some powdered tablets. While Tiffin varied from
idly, dosai, appam to uppma, pongal, etc. Ghee
and Dalda was used extensively during cooking,
it was always a three course meal – cone-shaped
heaped rice with sambar, rasam and butter-milk,
porial, kootu and pickles , not to forget crunchy
appalams. Vadai-payasam was served on festivals.
Bread was reserved for the sick and for picnics
as well as bun butter jam which used to be a delicacy
used only on special occasions like picnics or
school excursions. Chapatti was considered as
food for North Indians only. Chinese food was
a luxury available only in 1 or 2 restaurants
in the city. Fruits were to be eaten, not drunk.
The only fruits that were commonly available were
bananas, grapes and saathukkudi. Grand parents
usually always stayed with there children in their
house and there were no such term as old age homes.
Grandmothers generally had the final say in almost
any matters of the house was highly respected
by all including young children, They used to
make all the children (most houses had atleast
3 children or more) sit in circle and give food,
usually rice mixed with sambar or rasam etc, made
them into a small ball and gave them each in hand
telling stories. It used to be an interesting
aspect and we looked forward to gather.
To quench thirst, one could buy sherbets sold
by pushcart vendors and a glass of it cost usually
10 paisa and with some melon inside an additional
5 paisa more. Ice was crushed inside a rubber
sheet which was usually an old used and unusable
truck tyre and beaten on the road. There was no
mineral water and water from the roadside tap
was used for making these sherbets and nobody
usually fell sick drinking them. Soda was only
Goli soda and cola was only Kali mark or a colorful
liquid which was called COLOUR and cost usually
10 paisa. When important guests came home somebody
ran to get a color from the roadside shop to be
served to guests. If the guest left behind some
color the children of the house normally finished
them .
Brahmin hotels meant only vegetarian and military
hotels served predominantly non-vegetarian. Arya
Bhavan in Georgetown and Dasaprakash in Poonamalle
high road were patronized by food connoisseurs
as was the Buhari hotel in mount road for non-vegetarians
whose specialty was mutton samosa and biriyani.
Most people went to bed by 9pm and anything beyond
were considered very late night. Nights started
at sunsets, especially when the lights came on
at homes. People touched their chin when lights
were switched on at dusk.
Madras had narrow lanes. Flats were unknown and
it was either single houses or rectangular shaped
houses with narrow walk-through with just two
floors. Lavatory and bathrooms were separate rooms
and not together as it is now. Attached bath rooms
were in houses of the rich and famous only and
shower bath was an extreme rarity. Almost every
house had its front entrance door and the rear
exit door in a straight line. Only the rich had
cars and there were only two types of cars the
fiat and the ambassador apart from the old English
cars like Morris minor, Austin , vanguard, Vauxhall
and standard herald, super 10 and standard penant
that were made by standard motors at Vandaloor
in Chennai. AC in cars were unheard of those days
The slightly well off middle class had bikes like
the Enfield, jawa, rajdoot, or the only two scooters
available lambretta and vespa. To get a vespa
one usually had to book and wait for about 10
years to get delivery. Cars could be parked anywhere
and there was no such thing as “difficult
to find a parking slot” as there were hardly
any cars on the road. State transport buses were
the main mode of transport with an occasional
auto and the black and yellow taxis that were
generally used to go and come from the Railway
station.
Only the rich had telephones and there were no
direct dialing or the STD as it is called. One
had to book trunk calls which were in 3 categories
the normal, urgent and lightening. Urgent was
3 times the cost of normal and lightening was
9 times the cost of normal. PCO to make International
calls was available only in GPO at Parry’s
or in Mount Road Post office, so also was telex.
Local calls were charged at Rs1 per call and it
had no time limit per call. International calls
were charged at Rs. 60 per minute. If you wanted
to own a telephone you had to book and wait for
a minimum of 5 years or more and the arrival of
the new phone finally was such a joyous occasion
similar to the arrival of a new child in the family.
The main areas of the city were Mylapore, Triplicane,
Georgetown, Royapuram, Perambur, Pursawalkam and
T.Nagar. Perambur and Royapuram were famous for
Anglo Indians. The 14-storey LIC Building was
a landmark being the tallest building in South
India at the time and was must see in the tourism
agenda of anybody visiting Madras. KJ Hospital
was famous for the malayalis who visited Madras
as this was where the most famous Malayalam film
actor of those days Sathyan died. Marina beach
was a paradise and people did not litter the place
and was not as crowded as now. Children were fond
of collecting shells and collected as many as
possible during every visit. There were not more
than a dozen cars at any time even on weekends
in the beach. Sundal which used to be called Thenga
maanga Pataani sundal and murukku and the traditional
Molaga Bajji made in the beach hot were the only
things sold on the beach. Spencer's was a colonial
landmark and the most expensive shop of Madras
that catered to the rich and famous of the city
those days. The shop was so expensive that the
phrase “spencer rate” to denote anything
expensive was derived from it and was used till
about the 90s commonly. Many of the older people
still use this term to denote anything expensive.
If one had to buy books the only book store that
was known to anybody and everybody was Higginbothams
on Mount Road and it was a store frequented by
school and college students to get their text
books as well as Cards like Birthday cards Christmas
and New Year cards etc.
P. Orr & Sons was one of the only shop that
sold watches and was the most trusted for people
to buy their HMT or Favorleuba watches.
Whitefield in Puraswalakam was one of the well
known bakeries of the city
Binny & co was the only company that produced
quality fabrics and were well known for their
uniform fabrics. Readymades were unheard of and
everybody had to stitch their clothes be it pants
or shirts. Uniform and most clothes were usually
stitched in cotton and for special occasions terycotton
and terylene fabrics which were expensive was
used. Buying new clothes or footwear was so rare
and used to bring so much joy especially to the
children.
Simpson, EID Parry, Gordon Woodroffe, Best &
Co, Hoe & Co were well known companies.
Moore Market that was located where the current
Southern Railway ticket booking building exists
and was a sprawling shopping centre which was
a circular Red building built by the British where
you could buy anything and was one of the most
popular shopping centre as well as tourist attraction
of the city
New Eliphinstone theatre in Mount road showed
exclusively Malayalam movies.
Blue Diamond Theatre in the Safire theatre complex
had continuous shows from 8 AM to 11 PM and was
a theatre were one could go inside in the morning
and stay back till night without anybody asking
any questions. This was a place where young lovers
secretly met.
Cinema was the main source of entertainment.
Older people enjoyed classical music and stage
plays which were common. There were several sabhas
that staged dramas with season tickets for its
members. People visited houses of friends and
relatives often and no prior appointment or call
to check their availability was required. People
who visited homes were always welcomed warmly.
You left work at 6pm and nothing from the office
like files or emails or mobile calls followed
you. After office hours and Weekends were all
yours when you did gardening or listened to the
radio or visited some friends and slept during
the afternoon after a heavy lunch.
Going to school was the least of stress and children
enjoyed going to schools especially because of
the games played during the lunch hour and the
ice cream that could be eaten during the lunch
hour. Ice cream consisted of frozen coloured ice
on a wooden twig. Variations like orange and cola
depended on the colour used and for more variations
there was semiya ice which was frozen vermicelli
at the bottom for a higher cost. The usual cost
of these ice creams were 5 paise and for the upmarket
ice creams there was pal ice which was ice cream
with milk flavour and white in colour. One of
the popular brands that sold on these push carts
was known as RITA icecream. Most children went
to neighbourhood schools and hence walking was
the most common mode of transport as well as cycle.
A child coming to school dropped in car was an
absolute rarity. Most children stayed back after
school hours in the school to play and some of
them had probably maximum one tuition to attend
especially for Maths even in Class 11 which was
called as SSLC. Class12 was not there and after
passing 11th std one went to college to do the
next year known as PUC before branching off to
degree. Degree courses were few. The best and
brilliant got into Medicine or Engineering depending
on if they took 2nd group or 1 st group in PUC.
There were only 5 or 6 engineering colleges in
the whole of tamilnadu and admission was strictly
based on merit only. The others got into B.Sc
Physic, Maths, Chemistry, Botany, Zoology in science
group or into B.com or BA Economics, history and
literature. Anybody doing literature or history
were the ones who did not get admission into anything
better and who scored the lowest marks in PUC
generally. Of course influence was useful and
required to get into the better colleges like
Loyola, Vivekananda, Vaishnav, MCC etc. Teachers
usually charged between Rs.10 to 30 per month
for tuitions and was either taken in the school
or in the teacher’s house.
The only co educational college in the city was
MCC and there were no co educational schools in
the city. Boys and girls speaking to each other
was considered a taboo and generally not accepted
Children or for that matter nobody had ever heard
about computers and hence children spent a lot
of time playing outdoors. The common games where
goli, bambaram, gilli and Kathadi. Cycle tyre
racing on the roads among kids was a common sport
and even rich kids did that and parents never
objected to their kids playing with the poorer
kids. Each game had a season to it. The kathadi
season used to start from the quarterly exam holidays
and ends on the day of Deepavali. It was every
kids dream to put manja for his thread during
the holidays. Cricket was a late entrant and was
normally played with wooden planks and rubber
balls. If a rubber ball was lost a ball was made
using thin rubber bands made from cycle tube and
rolled on to a paper to make it a good ball. The
kids of more prosperous fathers managed to get
cork ball which cost 35 paisa. Cricket ball cost
Re 1 and went up to Rs 4 for the finest quality
and was considered a big luxury to own one of
them. The kid who owned a bat had always the right
to bat first and the kid who owned the ball had
the right to bowl first or he would go home without
giving the bat or ball.
For the youngsters it was movies and films songs
over ‘Radio Ceylon’ and vividh bharathi.
TV started in the 70s with black and white transmission
only and with the advent of Asian games in Delhi
in 1980 it was converted to colour and owning
a colour TV was a staus symbol. TV had only one
channel which used to start at 6.30PM and end
at 9 PM. There were no advertisements on TV and
Saturday and Sunday had movies. Most neighbors
used to go the house that had a TV to watch movies.
The most popular TV program was called Oliyum
oliyum which was nothing but film songs from Tamil
movies and chitra haar from Hindi films. There
was another prog called vayalum vazhvum everyday
that every city dweller hated. When VCP (Video
cassette player) was introduced for the first
time it cost around Rs.50,000 at a time when a
salary of Rs 1000 was considered very high. If
someone bought a VCP his house used to be raided
by Income Tax officials.
Water shortage is not new to Chennai and Madras
was used to acute drinking water shortage even
during the 60s and 70s and wells were common in
most houses and water in wells were usually good
and in plenty
Cricket and Football matches were held at the
Corporation stadium and later at the then built
MA Chidambaram Stadium and hockey at the Egmore
stadium. Rs 10 to 25/- tickets had to be purchased
to watch Ranji trophy cricket . Lowest tickets
for Test matches were priced at Rs.25 for all
5 days. Test matches were played in 6 days with
a rest day after the 3rd day. People used to stand
in line from 5 AM onwards to enter the stadium
to watch a test match that used to commence at
10.20 AM. There was less traffic but a lot of
policemen who had a uniform of crisp starched
oversized shorts and red conical shaped hat. Cars
were a rarity . Cycles, horse drawn jetkas and
hand pulled rickshaws which were banned by MGR
and converted to cycle rickshaws were the main
form of conveyance. The Railways had only steam
engines running all trains. . The Grand Trunk
Express and the Brindavan Express were the most
prestigious trains. Steel trunks, longish Tiffin
carriers, a hold-all which was brown coloured
folded bed which when spread could be used to
sleep on the wooden sleepers found in 3rd class
coaches of trains and a plastic mug formed part
of the luggage. The 2nd class coach had sleepers
slightly padded with cotton and stitched on top
with rexine, and 1st class was the same as of
now. The postal system with its RMS, QMS had three
times a day delivery. Postmen were very popular
and people eagerly looked forward to them and
most of them were known personally to households
and some even offered water or buttermilk to them
during summer. Paying baksheesh to postman during
deepavali and pongal were common and this was
mainly due to the fear that they would not deliver
the mail otherwise.
Madras has become Chennai from 1996. The city
has expanded leaps and bounds . Independent bungalows
have given way to Flats. Traffic has become chaotic
and parking has become a nightmare. People have
become less considerate and all the empty spaces
that were used for playing by children have been
used to build concrete buildings. Children do
not have space to play and hence sit at home playing
games on the computer or watch TV or surf the
net. But there is space for everyone – visiting
Saravana Bhavan and umpteen other stylish restaurants
in every neighborhood often, Pazhamudir or Reliance
Fresh or Food world to buy vegetables and fruits
and groceries, strolling at Spencer’s, Citi
centre and other malls and a movie at Sathyam
theatres or Inox occasionally, or just stay at
home call to order anything you want be it water,
Pizza, any type of food or anything under the
sun that is available on a call. 24-hour multipleTV
channels are there for the couch potato. But nevertheless,
Madras aka Chennai is a good city to live in and
that’s what makes it loved by all
Sabu Balagopal
balagopalsabu@gmail.com
|
|